The day in a Henan county town does not begin with an alarm clock. It begins with the sound of a ladle against the rim of an aluminum pot, somewhere around five in the morning, in a doorway you might walk past a hundred times without a second look. Step through the steam and there it is: a vat of soup the color of wet bark, thick enough to hold a spoon upright for a second or two, breathing pepper into the cold air.

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